Wirral Mums Arts & Crafts Section

Easy Soap making for Kids

Wirral Mums — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 15:12:00 GMT

Soap making is a fun and useful hobby. But making lye soap can be rather dangerous, so it's not exactly suitable for children. However, that doesn't mean that youngsters can't get in on the soap making fun. There are other ways to make soap that are simpler and less hazardous. Here's a recipe for glycerine soap that is appropriate for preschoolers and older.

What You Need

* Glycerine soap (either bars or blocks)

* Soap dye

* Soap mould

* Microwave safe container

* Spoon

* Knife

Instructions

1. Cut a bar of glycerine soap into three pieces. If using blocks, cut two or three premeasured pieces. (Only an adult should do this step.)

2. Place the glycerine soap in the microwave safe container, and microwave for about 20 seconds or according to directions that came with soap blocks. Stir, and continue microwaving 10 seconds at a time until the soap is fully melted.

3. Add soap dye. For pastel colours, use only a few drops. For darker colours, keep adding dye until the desired colour is achieved.

4. Pour the soap into the mould and set aside. Allow to harden for an hour.

5. Once soap has hardened and cooled completely, pop it out of the mould. If it is stuck, place it in the freezer for a few minutes and try again.

Tips

* Use caution when removing soap from the microwave, and stir carefully to eliminate air bubbles. Soap that is heated too long or unevenly can erupt out of the container, causing burns.

* If you prefer, you can melt the soap in a double boiler over low to medium heat.

* If you would like a scented soap, you can add a couple of drops of fragrance oil. Just make sure it's safe for use on the skin, and remember that a little bit goes a long way.

* Want a layered bar of soap? Add colour to half of the melted soap, pour it into the mould, and let sit for about 5 minutes or until a “skin” forms on top. Then slowly pour the rest of the liquid soap (mixed with another colour of soap dye if you like) on top.

* You can make a swirled soap by waiting until you have poured the soap into the mould, adding drops of dye, and swirling with a toothpick.

* To make a simple yet elegant soap on a rope, pour half of the liquid soap into the mould, let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, and place a strand of beads on top. Then pour the rest of the soap on top of the beads and let cool completely. This makes a wonderful gift!

Melt and Pour Soap Making Basics

Wirral Mums — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 15:08:00 GMT

Soap is something that we all use. For some, one soap is as good as another. For others, skin issues or personal preferences dictate that certain kinds of soap be used. If you're particular about your soap, making it yourself will allow you to ensure that it only contains the ingredients you want to use. But isn't soap making difficult?

Making some types of soap, such as lye soap, is rather time-consuming, and it can be dangerous. But there is an easier way. Melt and pour soaps offer lots of flexibility, and they're very simple to make. Here is everything you need to know to get started.

Things You'll Need

Most melt and pour soaps are made of glycerine. Glycerine is a by-product that is usually removed during the soap making process, moulded into blocks, and sold to consumers. It is very moisturizing, and it even has some medicinal properties. You can buy glycerine soap base plain or with other ingredients added.

If you want to add colour to your soap, you'll need some soap making dye. Do not use just any kind of dye, as most types will stain the skin. There are lots of synthetic soap dyes on the market, but there are plenty of choices for those who prefer all-natural soap as well. For scented soap, you'll need fragrance or essential oils that are safe for use on the skin.

And last but not least, you'll need a few tools. You'll need a glass measuring cup to melt your base in if you melt it in the microwave, or a double boiler for melting on the stovetop. A sharp knife is essential for cutting the base into small chunks, and a wooden spoon works well for stirring. And of course you'll need a soap making mould to pour your soap into.

Techniques

The first thing you'll need to do is determine how much soap base you'll need. You can easily figure this out by filling the mould with water, and then pouring it into the measuring cup. It's a good idea to use a little more than you measured, because some soap base may stick to the sides of the container you melt it in.

Before you melt the soap base, cut it into small chunks. This will allow it to melt quicker and more evenly. If you're melting it in the microwave, cover the measuring cup and heat on high for no more than a minute at a time before stirring. Continue to heat and stir until all chunks are melted.

Once you've melted the base, you can add dye, fragrance and any other ingredients you like. Mix in dye a few drops at a time until the desired colour is achieved, and use fragrance sparingly. When the soap is coloured and scented to your liking, pour it into the mould and let harden and cool completely. The pop it out of the mould, and it's ready to use!

Yes, making melt and pour soap really is that simple. It's a great project for anyone who wants to venture into creating their own beauty products. And the resulting soaps are wonderful for gift giving. Go ahead, give melt and pour soap making a try!

How to Make Lavender Soap

Wirral Mums — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 15:03:00 GMT

Lavender is one of the most popular scents in aromatherapy. It has many therapeutic properties. It is naturally calming, making it a favourite of new mothers with fussy babies. It's also a safe and effective remedy for depression and stress. It can even be used to repel mosquitoes!

There is certainly no shortage of lavender products on the market. But those products often come at a premium price, despite the fact that lavender essential oil isn't all that expensive. Making your own lavender soap is a great way to save money, and it also gives you complete control over the ingredients in the finished product. Here are some simple recipes to use.

Liquid Lavender Soap

What You Need

* 10 tbsp. finely grated castile soap

* 8 tbsp. boiling water

* 2 tbsp. crushed dried lavender flowers

* 4 drops lavender essential oil

Instructions

1. Place the soap and water in the top pan of a double boiler with water in the bottom pan. Heat on low to medium heat, stirring frequently until melted and mixed well.

2. Remove the soap from the heat and pour into a bowl.

3. Crush the lavender flowers to a powder. Add the powdered flowers and oil to the soap, and mix thoroughly. Pour into a glass or plastic bottle for storage.

Lavender Soap Balls

What You Need

* 2 bars of castile or vegetable-based soap (unscented)

* ½ cup dried lavender flowers

* 10 drops lavender essential oil

* ¼ cup warm water

Instructions

1. Grate the soap into a large bowl with a cheese grater.

2. Add lavender blossoms and essential oil to the soap, and mix thoroughly.

3. Add warm water and stir.

4. Take a heaping teaspoon of the mixture at a time, and roll it into balls. Repeat until all soap is used.

5. Place the soap balls on a cookie sheet and let sit for about 2 days or until completely dried.

Lavender Beeswax Soap

What You Need

* 4 oz. unscented glycerine soap

* 10 drops lavender essential oil

* Violet soap dye

* 1 tsp. grated beeswax

Instructions

1. Cut soap into chunks and melt in double boiler over low heat. Add grated beeswax and stir until melted and mixed thoroughly.

2. Remove the soap from heat. Add essential oil and enough soap dye to achieve desired colouring and stir until colour is even.

3. Pour mixture into a soap mould and let set for 3 hours or until completely hardened.

These recipes are simple enough for anyone to use, even if you've never made soap before. Try one of them out, and experience the luxury of sweetly scented home-made lavender soap for yourself!

The Difference between Western and Chinese Calligraphy

Wirral Mums — Thu, 13 May 2010 15:29:00 GMT

Calligraphy is a beautiful type of writing that lends an air of sophistication to anything it's used on. To the casual observer, one piece of calligraphy might look much the same as any other. But each calligrapher has his own subtle differences in style, and there are also many different types of calligraphy that one may encounter.

The two most common types of calligraphy are Western and Chinese. Here are some facts and characteristics of each type.

Western Calligraphy

Western calligraphy dates back nearly as far as the Roman alphabet, which came into use around 600 BC. One of the first types of Western calligraphy that resembled the art as we know it today was called rustic capitals or canonized capitals. Rustic capitals were similar to their predecessors, Roman square capitals, but whereas square capitals were extremely uniform and intended for use in inscriptions, rustic capitals were more compressed, curvier, and better suited to pen and ink writing.

Uncial script developed in the second and third centuries AD. Like rustic capitals, it consisted entirely of capital letters, but it was more rounded in order to be more suitable for use on new, smoother papers such as parchment and vellum. Uncial was frequently used by monks to copy religious texts.

Western calligraphy underwent many more changes throughout the years, with the development of such styles as Semi-Uncial, Caroline and Gothic. The Gothic style was incorporated in to Johannes Gutenberg's original printing press, making it the world's first typeface.

Although the printing press made it much faster and easier to produce copies of scripts, Western calligraphy has stood the test of time. Modern Western calligraphy is done with pens and ink. Many calligraphers still use reed or quill pens, but fountain and felt-tip pens are also options.

Chinese Calligraphy

Also known as East Asian calligraphy, Chinese calligraphy is practiced in China, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. But true to its name, Chinese calligraphy originated and was developed in China. Although some Chinese scholars disagree, Chinese calligraphy is generally considered an art in the countries that practice it.

Chinese calligraphy has also undergone many transformations in its centuries of existence. The first known incarnation of the writing style was Jiaguwen, which has been found on carvings that date back to ancient China. Calligraphy was also done with brushes and ink in those times, but samples of such did not survive the test of time.

Until around 220 BC, each kingdom of China had a unique set of characters. But emperor Qin Shi Huang ordered that a set of standardized characters, called Xiaozhuan, be created. Lishu and Kaishu styles were subsequently created, and Kaishu is the style that is most often used today.

The most notable differences between Western and Chinese calligraphy are the alphabets and mediums used. But each style has its own colourful history.

How to Get Started in Calligraphy

Wirral Mums — Thu, 13 May 2010 15:24:00 GMT

Calligraphy is not only a way of writing, it is an ancient art form. Its roots are believed to go back as far as Egyptian hieroglyphics, which represent the first stylized method of pictorial communication. Calligraphy as we know it, however, originated with Middle Age monks, who used it to make copies of the Bible and other holy texts.

Just as those monks used fancy writing to indicate the beauty and importance of the words they were writing, calligraphers today use the writing style to evoke similar feelings. Calligraphy is often used in signs, menus and other business applications to lend an air of grace and sophistication. Other places you might find calligraphy are in pieces of artwork and on wedding invitations.

While many people are intrigued by calligraphy, comparatively few take it upon themselves to learn it. They often feel that they do not have the artistic ability that is required. What they don't realize is that calligraphy really doesn't require much of that. It's more about attention to detail.

For those who are looking for a hobby that doesn't require a large investment, calligraphy is great. You only need a few supplies and a willingness to learn to get started.

Paper for Calligraphy

Choosing the right paper for calligraphy is very important. You don't need the most expensive paper for practice, but you do need a paper that will not bleed much. Some beginners use graph paper to help them get accustomed to making their letters in the correct sizes and proportions. Others use bond paper and draw light lines in pencil to guide them.

For finished work, a higher quality paper of a heavier weight is needed. Many calligraphers use handmade papers. Some also use vellum, which is made of animal skin. Whatever type of paper you use, it should be smooth and acid-free.

Pens for Calligraphy

Cheap ballpoint pens simply won't do for calligraphy. You don't necessarily have to use quills like they did in the old days, but you will need a flat-edged pen that is specifically designed for calligraphy. Or even better, a set of pens in a variety of sizes.

Fountain pens and felt tip pens are easier to use than dip pens, but it's hard to get the same quality out of them. These types of pens are suitable for learning, but for long-term use, a reed, bamboo or quill pen is a better choice. These types of pens utilize nibs, or tips, of various sizes. You'll also need some quality ink, but it's probably best not to spring for the really expensive stuff until you get some practice in. Some inks have droppers built into the lid to make inking your pen easier.

Other Calligraphy Supplies

To start with, paper, pens and ink are all that you really need. As you learn the basics and begin to work on more complex projects, you might find that you need more tools. These may include rulers, compasses and line guides. You'll also find that an ultrasonic cleaner makes keeping your nibs clean much easier.

Calligraphy is a fun hobby, and it can also provide a source of income if you want to go that route. Learning takes practice, but it doesn't cost much to get started. And just about anyone who has a steady hand and plenty of patience can do it.

Digital Scrapbooking Explained

Wirral Mums — Thu, 13 May 2010 13:26:00 GMT

Scrapbooking is a fun and relaxing hobby. But there are certain aspects of it that are less than appealing to some. For one thing, all those scrapbooks that accumulate over time take up a lot of room. They also use up a lot of paper, which isn't good for the environment. And all of those supplies that scrapbookers need cost a significant amount of money.

So what's someone who loves the look of scrapbooks but doesn't want to deal with the clutter and expense to do? Try digital scrapbooking!

Like traditional scrapbooking, digital scrapbooking offers an attractive way to display your photos. But instead of making a physical album, you do everything on your computer. You use digital photographs and graphics to create pages much in the same way as you would with a paper scrapbook, only without the paper.

Digital scrapbooking has numerous advantages, including:

* It's much less expensive than paper scrapbooking in the long run. You probably already have a suitable graphics program on your computer. If not you'll have to purchase one, but by the time you've created a few scrapbooks, you'll still come out ahead.

* It's easier to make changes to a digital scrapbook. With a paper scrapbook, once you've created a page, you can't really remove elements or switch them around. With a digital scrapbook, all it takes is a click of the mouse to make any change you want to make.

* If you create a template you love, you can save it and use it again and again. There's no need to recreate it from scratch.

* You can afford to send copies of your scrapbook to friends and family. Not only would duplicating a paper scrapbook be time-consuming, it would be quite costly. But with a digital scrapbook, all you have to do is send a file via email or burn it onto a CD. There are even websites where you can create a digital scrapbook and send the link to anyone you want to see it.

* You don't have to worry about your photos fading. Digital photos and scrapbook pages are immune to the effects of heat, time and oxidation.

* If you decide that you want a hard copy of your digital scrapbook, you can always print out the pages and make one. There are also printing companies that will turn your scrapbook pages into a professionally bound book.

Some scrapbookers enjoy the process of putting pages and books together. Others like the look of scrapbooks, but long for an easier way to create them. If you don't think paper scrapbooking is for you, or if you lack the time or funds to do it as much as you would like, try digital scrapbooking. But be warned: it is highly addictive!

How to Create a Good Scrapbook Layout

Wirral Mums — Thu, 13 May 2010 13:23:00 GMT

If you read about scrapbooking in magazines or online, you know how elaborate the layouts can get. It's easy to see that many of them took hours to create. Some would-be scrapbookers are intimidated by the complexity of the layouts they see and decide to pursue another hobby.

But you don't have to use elaborate layouts to make your scrapbook beautiful and memorable. Creating attractive layouts is much simpler than most people think. And by keeping things fairly simple, you allow your photos to take centre stage. Read on to learn how to create a great layout without going to art school.

Choose the Right Papers

The paper is undoubtedly the most important element of any scrapbook layout. It doesn't matter how beautifully you embellish a page - if you choose the wrong type or colour of paper, it won't look right. So it's important to spend some time choosing the right papers.

For the page itself, you'll need to use card stock. Solid colours are easiest to work with, because you don't have to worry about the patterns of your embellishments competing with the background. But using a patterned paper can work if you do your borders and frames in co-ordinating solid colours.

Colours should be co-ordinating and appropriate to the theme of the scrapbook and page. You can also help bring the page together by choosing colours from the photos themselves to use in borders and mats.

Matting Photos

Matting your photos gives your page a more finished look. And it's very simple to do. All you need is a pair of scissors or paper cutter, two colours of card stock and a glue stick.

To create the mat, choose the colour you want to directly border the photo. Measure a square or rectangle that is a half inch wider and a half inch longer than the photo, and cut out. Then measure a square or rectangle on the other colour of paper that is a half inch longer and a half inch wider than the first shape, and cut it out too. Centre the smaller shape on top of the larger one, and the photo on top of it all.

Add Embellishments

Once you've chosen the colours and photos for the page, it's time to get started with embellishments. These include borders, stickers, die cuts, pressed flowers, and whatever else you want to place on the page.

When working on your layout, it's a good idea to hold off on gluing things down until you're sure that everything is the way you want it. That way, if you make a mistake, you won't have to start over from the beginning. It also allows you to experiment with placement of the items.

Creating a great layout requires some planning, but anyone can do it. The trick is finding the right balance between your photos and the other items on the page. If you avoid using so many embellishments that they draw attention away from the photos, and choose colours that co-ordinate with each other and your photos, it's hard to go wrong.

Scrapbooking Fun: How to Get Started

Wirral Mums — Thu, 13 May 2010 13:17:00 GMT

Scrapbooking has become a very popular hobby. Perhaps you've admired a friend's scrapbook and thought about creating one of your own. It can't be that hard, right? But once you walk into a scrapbook supply store and see all of the different supplies that go into creating those pretty pages, you might have second thoughts.

Creating a scrapbook isn't a matter of just throwing some pictures on a page. But it's not brain surgery, either. If you can cut and paste, you can scrapbook. Here's how to get started.

Choose Your Photos

The most important element of any scrapbook is the photos. Most scrapbooks follow some sort of theme. They might contain pictures featuring a certain person from childhood through present day, or be centred around a specific event such as a wedding or family holiday.

Once you've come up with a theme and selected your pictures, you'll need to further organize them into sub-topics. For example, for a wedding scrapbook, you could do pages with photos of the bride and groom getting ready for the wedding, pictures of the wedding party, and so on. Getting your photos organized first thing makes the project much easier, and you can always make changes later if needed.

Select an Album and Paper

Some scrapbookers buy the album first and then decide which photos to put in it, and that's fine. But for your first album, it may be better to choose the album after you've chosen a theme and photos. That way you can easily choose the right colour, style and size for the project.

You'll also need to choose some papers that co-ordinate with your album. You'll need paper for the pages, as well as paper to use in matting photos and creating borders. Try to buy all the paper you'll need before you get started. That way, you won't have to worry about running out mid-project and not being able to find another pack of the same paper.

Buy Basic Supplies, Tools and Embellishments

When you're just getting started in scrapbooking, you don't need lots of tools. A pair of scissors and a glue stick are all that you absolutely have to have. But there are certain tools that make things easier and give you more options for customizing your scrapbook. A paper cutter, for instance, will make it quick and easy to cut in a straight line. Other tools to consider include hole punches, pinking shears and eyelet setters.

There are all sorts of embellishments available for scrapbooking. But for your first scrapbook, you'll probably want to keep things fairly simple. Stickers are easy to work with, and they come in just about any motif you could possibly want. You can also buy ready-made paper frames for your photos to add a nice touch without a lot of effort.

Alternatively, you could purchase a scrapbooking kit. Found in most craft stores, these kits include co-ordinating papers and embellishments. This isn't the most original approach, but it eliminates the need to search for matching items separately and lets beginners concentrate on learning the techniques used in scrapbooking.

As with any hobby, it's best to start simple when you're learning to scrapbook. You don't have to use lots of fancy embellishments to create a beautiful page. The basics will do just fine, and you can always learn more as you go.

Mizuhiki – The Ancient Japanese Art of Knot Tying

Wirral Mums — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:26:00 GMT

Mizuhiki is the Japanese art of knot tying for decorative purposes. It goes beyond mere decoration, though, as beautiful, creative pieces of art can be made with this technique. Practitioners of mizuhiki use a special kind of paper to create this intricate, meaningful knot work. The paper is twisted tightly into a cord before it is used to tie mizuhiki designs.

History

Mizuhiki is said to have begun with the Samurai during the 1600s. At that time, an artisan developed a strong paper of high quality which could be twisted into a strong cord. Samurai used this corded paper to tie their hair into a topknot. Westernization brought shorter hair, and for a while, the art decreased in use. But it had become established firmly enough in Japanese culture that it never died out, and it is now enjoying a revival.

Originally, the designs were flat. Besides being used as a hair tie, mizuhiki was used to bind money envelopes and for engagement gifts. Its symbolic nature fit these applications - certain symbols were considered lucky (hence the use on money envelopes), and the tying of knots was a picture of unity, which explains its use in wedding and engagement gifts. Mizuhiki gradually became more elaborate until three-dimensional works began to be created.

The colours used in mizuhiki are not incidental; they have distinct meanings. Red and white are the basic colours of mizuhiki, and practitioners take special care when colouring their red cords by hand. Red and white are interwoven with gold and silver for weddings, and the red is replaced with black or blue in funeral pieces. Multi-coloured pieces are for happy, informal occasions.

How to Make Your Own

The main supplies you need to make your own mizuhiki creations are just mizuhiki cord and scissors. Mizuhiki cord can be purchased online, and for the beginner, there are kits with remnants from traditional Japanese artisans. If you cannot find mizuhiki cord, use cotton crochet thread. For the beginner, you may want to use needle-nosed pliers and tape to pull the cord through tight places and hold the design in place.

When you begin, most directions start with a basic knot. Even this first step has several possible variations, so this is a craft that lends itself to creativity. To make a basic knot:

1. Hold one end of the cord and make a loop, crossing the cord over the top.

2. Make another loop over the top of the first one.

3. Draw the cord under the first end and feed it through the two loops in an over-and-under, over-and-under fashion. You will essentially be tying the base of the loops.

4. Once the ends are even, trim them with scissors.

Use your creations to decorate baskets and gifts, to slip inside cards, or to decorate a room.

Origami – Paper Folding Your Children Will Love

Wirral Mums — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:23:00 GMT

Children love to make things, and being able to create fun designs from ordinary paper holds a special charm for them. Children are naturally drawn to this kind of art, as anyone who has been the victim of a flying paper airplane can attest. Origami is not only fun and satisfying, but it also helps foster co-ordination and dexterity. Look for designs and projects that fit your child's age, and get ready for a project everyone will enjoy.

Did you know that you can download printable designs from the internet? (Type "free printable origami patterns" into your web browser.) There are even online tutorials with helpful pictures and videos. Also, your library will have lots of books on origami. To help you get started, here are some tips for folding neat, attractive origami creations.

1. Read first. It may be tempting to start right in on the folding, reading as you go, but take the time to read through the directions and the design before beginning.

2. Use the right kind of paper. While you don't need to use formal origami paper, make sure you use a paper that will work for your child's age and co-ordination level, and that fits your design. For example, thinner paper such as magazine paper works for smaller designs, but you will need something sturdier for larger, simpler projects for younger children. Origami paper is almost always square.

3. Start with projects that have ten steps or less. That prevents you feeling overwhelmed.

4. Make sure you are folding on a hard surface such as a smooth tabletop or floor. This will help keep the paper from creasing in unwanted areas and will help you to make clean folds.

For a simple beginning project, here are the basic instructions for a simple origami cat.

Materials:

* 1 sheet of square paper, at least 6 inches by 6 inches, in whatever colour you like

* Markers

* Glue

* Plastic "googly" eyes

Directions:

1. Fold the square paper in half diagonally to make a triangle. Make a smooth crease.

2. Fold the paper in half again, once more diagonally. Make the fold smooth. Then open this fold up again.

3. Fold the top tip of the triangle down so that it comes down about 1/4 of the way. The flat top you create with the smooth crease will be the top of the cat's head.

4. Fold the bottom right corner straight up - the point will go slightly beyond the top of the cat's head to make the ear.

5. Repeat with the bottom left corner.

6. Flip the whole thing over, and you have a simple cat's face to which you can add whiskers and eyes.

The Different Styles of Ikebana Explained

Wirral Mums — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:20:00 GMT

Ikebana is a general term that refers to the art of Japanese flower arranging. Within ikebana are different styles, some of which are explained below. It would be impossible to discuss all styles of ikebana in one short article. But there are key styles of ikebana, and within these styles there are variations of design.

1. Moribana means "piled-up flowers." The base is a low bowl or dish and the arrangements can be upright or slanting.

-Upright style moribana is considered the most basic style in ikebana. The low container is suggestive of serving, and is intended to evoke images of serving up a full or plentiful bowl. Metal supportive structures called kenzan (or frogs) are used within the container to stabilize the arrangement.

-Slanting style moribana uses plants that tend to slant in nature, or look appealing when slanted. It is meant to look softer than the more formal upright style. The arranger may choose a slanting style because of where the arrangement is going to be placed, or because of the container shape. Slanting style moribana also uses a low container.

2. Nageire, or upright style, can also be upright or slanting. Nageire has a cascading style.

-Upright nageire uses a tall container with a narrow top, and no kenzan are used. Sometimes, just one flower is used in upright nageire. It is very simple and often uses natural materials for the container such as bamboo.

-Slanting style nageire also uses a tall, narrow container. It is often the style employed by beginners of ikebana, as there is a certain amount of flexibility in the design. It also helps students develop the gentle touch necessary for advanced ikebana.

-Cascading style nageire is more dramatic than the upright or slanting style. The tall container is necessary for the branches to hang down and over, which is why there is no cascading style in moribana. The branches of the plants in cascading style nageire hang over the rim of the container, so flexible plant material is employed. Cascading style evokes an appreciation of line, motion and balance.

3. Another style of ikebana that came from the nageire style is called sheika or shoka. This style employs three main branches that are to represent heaven, earth and man. Smaller branches are used to complement the three main ones.

4. Rikka style springs from the Buddhist tradition. Arrangements in the rikka style, which means "standing flowers," involve seven branches that are arranged in a specific way. The intent it to express the Buddhist view of nature and beauty.

Ikebana – An Explanation

Wirral Mums — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:17:00 GMT

Ikebana is an ancient form of Japanese flower arrangement that is said to have originated with Buddhist monks about 500 years ago. The monks would arrange flowers to decorate the altars of the temple. From there, ikebana evolved into an art form enjoyed by the royalty and ruling classes. Later, ikebana came to be enjoyed by ordinary people, incorporating Buddhist ideals and expressions of nature. Three basic schools emerged from ikebana's history:

1. Ikenobo, the oldest school, began in the 15th century. It was enjoyed primarily by the emperor and his court, and mainly involved simple arrangements of evergreen branches and a very few branches or flowers. It was very formal and minimal.

2. Sogetsu was created in response to the exclusivity of ikenobo, which was mainly enjoyed by aristocracy. Sogetsu encourages individual expression and universal appeal. Any plant materials in any container may be used, and it can be placed anywhere. However, it is still according to ikebana standards of minimalism and appreciation for nature.

3. The Ohara school was developed in the 19th century, and from this school came the informal moribana style, which means "piled-up flowers." The Ohara school also developed the nageire style, which means "flung flowers." Moribana style uses a dish or bowl for the base, and nageire uses a tall vase.

The base is part of the design. Flowers and branches that reach over the edge of the container, for example, could make a statement about nature reaching out to man, or vice versa. A low, flat bowl gives a more anchored, earthy feel, whereas a tall, thin vase evokes ethereal images.

Modern ikebana uses two basic styles: moribana and nageire. Students are given patterns from which to work. There are three main branches, called shushi, that are the focal point of the design. Shorter branches, called jushi, are incorporated and are intended to complement the shushi.

Ikebana is more about the appreciation of form and line rather than

colour and abundant blooms. It is minimal in its expression, the goal being to express man's relationship to nature using as few elements as possible. Ikebana is understated yet meaningful.

There is a spiritual element to ikebana as well. A philosophy of the universe is often taught in the ikebana schools along with the flower arranging. The three main branches of the designs are said to represent heaven, earth and man or the sun, moon, and earth. When practitioners are arranging the flowers, they remain silent. The silence is intended to focus one's attention on the beauty and details of nature without distraction.

Bonsai 101

Wirral Mums — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:11:00 GMT

While most people associate bonsai with Japan, it probably originated in China. The word "bonsai" is a combination of the Chinese word for pot, "bon," and "sai," which means to plant. During the 8th century A.D., Chinese culture greatly influenced Japan, and this is probably when the Japanese adopted the art. Bonsai are meant to evoke natural beauty on a small scale, and to mimic the characteristics of a mature tree in miniature.

Growing a Bonsai Tree - How to Get Started

Bonsai is a blend of horticulture and art. It can be enjoyed by anyone, whether as a hobby or more time-consuming lifestyle. Before you begin, you will need some equipment. Here are some basics to get started.

1. Bonsai pots of various sizes and styles

2. Flexible mesh screen

3. Copper wire

4. Pruning shears

5. Pruning scissors (for trimming small branches, leaves and shoots)

6. Soil mix of two parts potting soil and one part pea-sized gravel

7. Chopsticks or unsharpened pencil

Now you will need to obtain your bonsai tree, or the raw material to make one. Here are some ideas.

1. Buy a ready-made bonsai from a local nursery or the internet and maintain its design.

2. Collect a small tree from the wild. This is the traditional Japanese method of obtaining bonsai, but it can be tricky in our modern times. Make sure you are authorized by the property's owners. Look for a tree that has an interesting shape and can be easily collected. Trees growing on rocks, with their shallow root systems and twisted shapes, are ideal.

3. Garden

centre stock makes excellent beginner's specimens. Juniper, cotoneaster, azalea, Japanese holly, and boxwood make good choices.

4. Landscaping cast-offs are another way to obtain bonsai material that is often already mature. When property owners tear out old shrubs such as azalea, boxwood, juniper, and forsythia, try to rescue one to make into a bonsai tree.

Cut to Shape

Once you have obtained your bonsai stock, it's time to trim it to shape. Do not put it in the bonsai pot just yet; turn it and study its shape, looking for the tree-like qualities. Trim away branches from the base to form a bare trunk, and aim for a dense, finely branching crown. Use wire coiled around the trunk or branches to make the shape look like a tree that has grown for decades in the wind or hanging from a rock.

Pot It Up

Once you have the shape you want, gently wiggle the plant free from the pot and shake off as much dirt as you can from the root ball. Using your pruning shears, trim back the roots by about two-thirds. The root system should now be shallow enough to fit into your bonsai pot.

Prepare the pot by covering the pot's holes with small squares cut from the wire mesh. Pour a small amount of potting mix on the bottom of the pot, set your newly-trimmed bonsai on top, then fill in with potting mix. Use the chopstick or pencil to work the soil down among the roots. Water thoroughly.

Maintaining Your Bonsai

Your bonsai is always a work in progress. Keep it trimmed to maintain and refine its shape. Every other year, in the very early spring, remove your bonsai from its pot and re-trim the roots. Remember, bonsai are not houseplants. Keep your bonsai outside.

How to Make Your Own Chocolate Easter Eggs

Wirral Mums — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:45:00 GMT

Chocolate and Easter go together as much as Easter eggs and baskets. Why not combine the different elements and learn how to make your own chocolate Easter eggs? Ask your children to help you make the chocolate eggs and enjoy the time together.

Chocolate Easter eggs can be made with any type of chocolate. Using dark or milk chocolate may be the easiest. However, if you’d like to try your hand at making pastel eggs, choose white chocolate and add food colouring to create the shades you like. You can also add extra ingredients such as nuts, fruit pieces, or peanut butter to make your chocolate eggs taste even better.

Using higher quality chocolate will result in better tasting chocolate eggs; however, you can use any type you have. You’ll need the following:

* Whatever chocolate you want to use

* Double boiler or microwave oven in which to melt the chocolate

* Heatproof bowl

* Chocolate moulds in the shape of eggs

* Rubber spatula to stir the chocolate

* Pastry bag or plastic bag with a hole in the corner for piping chocolate

* Any decorations or extras you want to include

Melt 12 ounces of chocolate over a double boiler (a heatproof bowl over a pot of boiling water). Turn the heat down so the water is simmering. Gently stir the chocolate with the spatula until it is completely melted. Or melt the chocolate in the microwave oven in a microwave-safe bowl.

The target temperature for the chocolate is about 110 degrees F (or 45 degrees C). When the chocolate is the correct temperature, remove it from the heat, dry the bottom of the bowl, and then add 4 more ounces of finely chopped chocolate and stir it vigorously until it is melted. This gives it a glossy, smooth appearance.

To mould the chocolate, the temperature of the chocolate should be about 90 degrees F (32 degrees C). Lightly coat the mould with oil so the chocolate releases when the chocolate is set. Don’t overfill the moulds and allow them to become hard before removing them and putting the two halves together.

Pipe melted chocolate on one half and then place the other half on top. Place the whole eggs in the refrigerator to finish hardening and then pipe additional chocolate around the seams. Decorate the chocolate Easter eggs by piping white chocolate which has been tinted, or with sugar sweet decorations.

Learning how to make your own chocolate Easter eggs is quite simple. It’s a matter of melting chocolate, pouring it into moulds, joining them together, and decorating. Depending upon what type of chocolate you use, you may never go back to store-bought eggs again!

How to Make a Paper Plate Easter Bonnet

Wirral Mums — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:24:00 GMT

In days gone by it wasn’t unusual to see women dressed in their finest clothes and Easter bonnets on Easter morning. The habit of wearing hats has seemingly fallen out of vogue. Your child can still learn how to make a paper plate Easter bonnet as part of their Easter tradition.

To create a paper plate Easter bonnet, you’ll need to pull together a few craft items:

* Paper plates

* Ribbon or yarn

* Scissors

* Glue or glitter glue

* Markers or crayons

* Construction paper

* Hole punch

* Artificial flowers, if desired

There are a several methods to choose from when making a paper plate bonnet. Here’s one method that’s relatively easy so even young children can make them.

Begin by cutting the middle out of the paper plate so it will fit on the child’s head. There should be a considerable amount of plate left which is where the decorations will go. Punch two holes in the plate, one across from the other. Be sure the holes are far enough into the plate so they don’t easily rip.

Let your child decorate what’s left of the plate however they want. They can make paper flowers and glue them onto their hat, or glue silk flowers. They can also

colour it with markers or crayons. Paper can also be cut into strips and curled to add to the brim of the hat. Let them have fun decorating it.

When the children have finished decorating their paper plate Easter bonnet, it’s ready for them to try on. Then they can tie two pieces of ribbon or yarn (about 10 inches long) into the holes, one on each side. Make a bow with the ribbon under their chin to hold the Easter bonnet on.

As you can see, it really isn’t difficult to make an Easter bonnet. You and your child can work together to create a new Easter bonnet each year. Make it a family tradition to enjoy with your child.

How to Make Your Own Natural Egg Dyes

Wirral Mums — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:20:00 GMT

Children love creating and searching for colo

ured Easter eggs. They’re as much a part of celebrating Easter as chocolate bunnies and baskets. Rather than using pre-made colouring dyes, why not learn how to make your own natural egg dyes? Natural egg dyes aren’t as vivid as artificial dyes but they’re every bit as beautiful.

Natural egg dyes can be made from a variety of foods, flowers and plants. The dye is transferred to the egg either while boiling the eggs or, as with normal dyes, after the eggs have been hard-boiled. When boiling the dye with eggs, be aware you’ll be limited to the number of colours you can do at once by the number of eyes your stove has.

When dyeing the eggs while boiling, you place the colouring ingredients into the pan of water which covers the eggs. Include a teaspoon of vinegar for deeper colours. If you’d rather dye the eggs after they’ve been boiled, cover the eggs with water and a teaspoon of vinegar, and then add the dyeing ingredients. Allow the eggs to sit in the dye in the refrigerator until they are the desired colour.

Here are various ingredients you can use to create the colours you want for your naturally dyed eggs:

* Lavender – Violet blossoms plus 2 teaspoons lemon juice, a small amount of purple grape juice

* Violet blue – Small amount of red onion skins placed in the water while boiling, violet blossoms, hibiscus tea, or red wine

* Blue – Purple grape juice or canned blueberries added to the water and placed in the refrigerator, red cabbage leaves placed in the water while boiling

* Green – Spinach leaves boiled with the eggs

* Yellow – Any of these can be boiled with the eggs: orange or lemon peels, carrot tops, celery seed, ground cumin, or ground turmeric. To get the same colour with the cold method, add green or chamomile tea to the water.

* Orange – Boiled yellow onion skins; cooked carrots, chilli powder, and paprika will result in the desired colour in the cold method.

* Brown – Black walnut shells boiled with the eggs, or you can add strong coffee, instant coffee, or black tea to water in the refrigerator.

* Red – A large amount of red onion skins boiled with the eggs. Using the cold method, add canned cherries in their juice, pomegranate juice, or raspberries.

* Pink – Use any of the following, added to water and placed in the refrigerator overnight: beets, cranberries or cranberry juice, raspberries, red grape juice, or the juice from pickled beets.

Remove the eggs from the water, place them in an egg carton, and let them dry. If you’d like your naturally dyed eggs to look shiny, you can rub vegetable oil into the egg shells. Perhaps, after learning how to make your own natural egg dyes, you won’t bother with the prepared dyes you can buy at the store.

Easter Egg Decorating Ideas

Wirral Mums — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:17:00 GMT

It’s a pretty safe bet you’ll be decorating Easter eggs

this weekend. However, you don’t have to be satisfied with simply dyeing the eggs. Try these Easter egg decorating ideas to make your eggs as individual as the people you’re decorating them for.

You may be surprised to know that many cultures have been decorating eggs for centuries. In fact, the most famous decorated eggs are the Fabergé eggs which were created for the Russian Tsars from 1885 to 1917. Of course, no one expects you to create anything as elaborate as a Fabergé egg!

If you plan to eat the eggs after they’ve been decorated, remember to use edible food colouring, paints, or items which are not hazardous to your health. This also includes using stickers, non-toxic glue, and crayons. Using non-traditional items to decorate your eggs can result in great-looking eggs that are unique.

Get your children involved in this idea. After the eggs have been hard-boiled, cooled, and dried, give the children crayons and let them draw various designs on the eggs. You can leave the eggs like this, but dyeing the eggs after they’ve been drawn on will create more vibrant designs. When the egg is dyed, the dye won’t penetrate the wax of the crayon and the design will stand out.

Egg heads can be created using either dyed or non-dyed eggs. Decorate only one side of the egg at a time and allow it to dry before decorating the other side. Use 3-D paint or pieces of yarn glued to the egg for hair. Use construction paper to create a ribbon for a girl’s hair or a boy’s tie. Glue them on after you decide where to place the wiggle eyes. Draw the mouth and other details with a water-based marker.

Place stickers on the eggs prior to dyeing them. When the eggs have reached the colour you desire, remove them from the dye and allow them to dry thoroughly. Remove the stickers to reveal the colour of the natural egg which will be a contrast to the dye’s colour.

Create a tie-dye look by carefully wrapping rubber bands around the eggs prior to dyeing them. Allow the eggs to remain in the dye until they reach the desired colour; take them out and allow them to dry. Carefully remove the rubber bands and place the egg into a different colour. Again remove them and allow them to dry. The result is amazing!

Your children will undoubtedly want to help with these Easter egg decorating ideas. Let them have fun with you and you may just create a family activity to share each year. Happy decorating!

How to Get Started on Acrylic Painting

Wirral Mums — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 19:49:00 GMT

Some people think only about watercolours or oils when it comes to painting. They may not even consider acrylics. If you’re interested in this medium but don’t know how to get started on acrylic painting, read on for more information.

In a lot of ways, acrylics are similar to watercolours. Acrylics are a form of water-based paints. You can thin the paint down using only water and clean up is a breeze, because water is all you need. A fast-drying paint, acrylics can be used straight, thinned down or in watery glazes.

A basic acrylic painting palette would include the following paints:

* Cadmium red medium is a good choice but you can also use cadmium red light and dark.

* Phthalo blue which can also be called monestial blue or thalo blue is a basic choice.

* Cadmium yellow medium which can be modified based on the amount of white you add to it is a good paint to choose.

* Titanium white will be used to mix with other colours to create various tints of those colours.

* Mars black is also added to create various shades so you’ll want a good quality black.

* Burnt umber is a variation of brown; you may also want to get raw umber which is a lighter variation of brown.

* Phthalo green is a great choice when trying to create a multitude of shades of green.

* Cadmium orange is a basic orange. If you use quite a bit of orange it may be easier to purchase ready-made orange rather than mixing it.

* Dark purple is another colour it’s easier to purchase ready-made instead of trying to create it by mixing the primary colours.

* Titanium buff or raw titanium is good when you’re trying to create skin tones when mixing it with burnt umber.

Actual palettes for painting can be made of glass, wood, or plastic, although you may get tired of cleaning the palette. You can now find paper palette pads which can be used and then torn off and thrown away.

After creating the basic acrylic palette, you’ll need a variety of paint brushes. Use stiffer-bristled brushes if you’re using the acrylics straight. If you’re going for a watercolour effect, it’s better to use soft-bristled brushes. Choose a good quality set of brushes which will include round, flat, pointed brushes of various lengths.

You’ll also need someplace to paint. People often purchase supports which include wood panels, paper, canvas boards, and stretched canvas. If you stretch your own canvas, you’ll also need a primer called gesso.

These are the basic items you’ll need when you learn how to get started on acrylic painting. You may want to choose each item individually but you may be able to find a complete set of acrylic paints with brushes as well. Take a look around; you may be surprised at what you can find.

Basic Painting Techniques for Pastels

Wirral Mums — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 19:46:00 GMT

Artists use a variety of medium. Some prefer to use oils or acrylics. Many artists consider pastels a great medium. If you’ve never used them, here are some basic painting techniques for pastels.

One of the more common and popular pastel mediums is the soft pastel. These pastels cover a large area and blend well to create new colours. Pastels can be used for a variety of techniques and look entirely different depending upon the amount of pressure you use with them and how many layers you apply.

When people think of pastels, they may be thinking of different mediums. Pastels can be found in crayon form, pencils, water soluble, and oil pastels. Each form one has its own benefits. For example, pastel crayons are durable, blend easily and yet allow you to create crisp, sharp lines. Water soluble pastels, on the other hand, can be used either wet or dry. Use them to cover a wide area on your paper and then add water to get a colourful wash. Oil pastels have a deeper, richer tone than other pastels. Use turpentine with oil pastels to thin them or extend them if you like.

One of the best techniques when using pastels is the ability to blend them. Rather than having to mix the paints on a palette, you can apply pastels directly to the paper and then blend other colours into them to create entirely new colours and shading techniques. Simply lay down a base colour and then add another on top of it. Blend the two colours with your finger or another blending tool to achieve the desired result.

Dry washing is another basic technique for pastels. Start by crushing or scraping some of the pastel into a powder. With a soft cloth or brush, apply the powder to the paper and work it in. Combine the colours on a palette or overlay colours and blend them in.

Try hatching to create a sense of shading. To do this, simply make small regular strokes in the same direction over an area. Cross-hatching is similar except after you finish hatching in one direction, you go back and add hatching in another direction, thus called cross-hatching. This technique will give you texture and shading. Depending upon the look you desire, you may want to use two shades of pastel.

Scribbling is a great way to fill in space. Start at the top of your paper and work down to avoid undue smudging or work from one direction to the other across the paper depending upon which hand you use primarily. When you’re satisfied with the way one area looks, you may want to spray a pastel fixative to avoid smudging it and changing the way it looks.

Some artists prefer to lay down the darker tones first and then come back to highlight. How you choose to use the basic painting techniques for pastels will depend upon your familiarity with the medium and your own artistic ability. Remember to have fun while using pastels; they’re a great artistic medium.

Moisture-Retaining Palettes for Acrylic Paints

Wirral Mums — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 19:42:00 GMT

One complaint artists using acrylic paints have is that the paint dries too quickly on the palette. By using moisture-retaining palettes for acrylic paints, artists can extend the time they can use their paints and cut down on the amount of paint that is wasted. You can purchase a pre-made moisture-retaining palette or you can make one for yourself.

Moisture-retaining palettes are needed because the water in acrylic paints evaporates easily. Some palettes which help you keep acrylic paints moist longer have a tight-fitting lid. A thin sponge or piece of watercolour paper is placed in the base of the tray to help keep the paints moist.

How long can you keep acrylic paints useable if you have one of these moisture-retaining palettes? Some artists have been able to keep their paints viable for several days. However, if you’re not careful to cover the palette so it’s tightly shut or you allow the sponge to dry out, you can expect your paints to dry out quicker. The manufacturer will give you all the information you need to know about how to keep the sponge and paint moist so it doesn’t go to waste.

You’ll want to clean the moisture-retaining palette periodically. Fold the grease-proof paper which has the paints on it and then simply throw it away. Rinse the watercolour paper or sponge and reuse it many times. Then wash the palette itself. Be sure to thoroughly dry the entire palette, each part, before you use it again.

To make your own moisture-retaining palette you can create one which is very similar to a store-bought palette. Any shallow plastic container with tight-fitting lid will work. This could be a food storage container, shoe box, or something similar.

You’ll also want to find some watercolour paper - the thicker the better as it will hold more water. Baking parchment or grease-proof paper is also a necessity. Since you’ll replace the grease-proof paper, you’ll want to buy an entire roll rather than smaller amounts.

Cut the watercolour paper and grease-proof paper to fit the inside of the plastic container. You can do this by placing the lid on the paper, drawing around the edge, and then cutting each paper just inside the lines.

Soak the watercolour paper in fresh water and then place it in the bottom of the container. Moisten the grease-proof paper and place it on top of the watercolour paper. Then squeeze out as much acrylic paint as you’ll need. Be sure to place the lid on the container when you’re finished painting to keep the paints moist.

As you can tell, you don’t have to purchase a ready-made moisture-retaining palette for acrylic painting. You can make a suitable replacement for much less and still have the benefit of keeping your paints moist. What could be better than that?